![]() |
Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
2 Attachment(s)
Someone on GIM once said that all survivalists will ultimately end up homesteaders. I think it is because at some point you realize your inability to stockpile "enough", and instead start thinking about becoming a producer.
We have decided that we will make the big move this fall. I am planning on renting a house from my in-laws for a year while I build our homestead house. We want our house to be completely disconnected from any pipes or wires to the outside world, and we've decided that we don't want it to run on any fuel that we can not FREELY harvest. We have decided on a combination of wood / solar. The design I've posted below is built around an old-fashioned wood cookstove (www.kitchenqueenstoves.com). It cooks the food, heats the water, and heats the house. This leaves us with the following electrical demands: 1. Refrigerator and freezer (one of each) 2. Deep well pump 3. Washing machine 4. Light bulbs (about 24 20w CFLs) 5. Miscelaneous items (sewing machines / 18v battery chargers) For a "back up" generator I want to build a Stirling Engine and incorporate it into the wood stove. This will prove to be a spectacular challenge, and I hope that some of you on GIM will be able to point me toward resources. I'd like to build this engine for $1,000 or less. My current design (below) is based upon a passive convection heating system. The second floor center rectangle is a passive air duct that will have 45 degree baffles directing the air flow into each of the two bedrooms at the ceiling level. This rectangle is spaced so as to fit between the floor joists. Also, there will be a duct which passes over the MBR doorway to take heat to the bathroom. There will be passive cold air returns around all exterior walls. The house is 1,100 square feet 1.5 story (4' outside walls on the second floor - left and right in the drawings). It is a 24' square. We feel that this will accomodate our current family of six. Because we have 4 girls (so far) they can share a room. If we happen to have boys (we'd like 6 kids total), then we will plan on adding a bedroom on the main floor off the back of the house. In order to build this house as cheaply as possible, the following are my hard and fast rules: 1. Must be 2x6 construction built on 24� centers (thicker insulation / less framing lumber / less solid non-insulated contact between interior and exterior) 2. Must use engineered floor joists capable of spanning entire floor (24� center / no steel support beams or interior load bearing walls) 3. Must have only 4 exterior 90 degree corners<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> 4. Must be a 1.5 story having a traditional dual plane roofline<o:p></o:p> 5. Must have 4� exterior walls upstairs on two sides (gabled on the other two)<o:p></o:p> 6. Must have a 3/4 or 12/12 roof pitch<o:p></o:p> 7. No doors in load-bearing exterior walls (eliminates headers) 8. Only 22�-wide windows positioned within framing (eliminates headers)<o:p></o:p> 9. Must be a 2-bedroom with a possible main-floor bedroom expansion Additionally I am going to attempt to use mostly salvaged materials to build this house. I am going to be approaching many flooring stores to see if they will give me left-over hardwood from partial boxes used on jobs. I will build a "patchwork" floor of mixed woods (as long as the thickness / cut is the same) and just stain it all dark. Likewise, we will do the same with remnant tiles for our bathroom floor / shower surround. Craigslist will be my primary shopping site. Anyway, please let me know if you have any suggestions. I've attached plans for both floors below. Thanks. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
do you have plans for a geothermal pump?
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
What are your sewage plans?
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
A septic system with a weeper field is a good choice, but the tanks do need to be pumped out on a regular basis, and you're going to have to ensure that the weeper field doesn't contaminate your water supply. IMHO, that's not really a smart do-it-yourself.
Can I suggest that the wood stove not be your only option where heating water is concerned. Solar water heating isn't expensive, and can maintain a good mean temp that only needs supplemented by the wood stove. I've spent some time living in houses heated by a central coal (or coke) fireplace ... and it's not pleasant. Mornings waking up and washing in cold water, because Mum hasn't had the fire going long enough to warm the water in the tank above it enough to make it worth the effort (and she'd skin us alive for wasting the heat). The long cold tile bathroom floor was horrific enough for us boys, but the girls had to sit on the icy toilet as well. The better house we had had hot water radiators in the rooms, fed from the tank above the fire. Dad took all the knobs off the taps to keep us from turning them up more. One thing that was very common in our houses was interior walls and doors. Forget trying to heat an open plan house. Every room had it's door and they were kept closed all the time. Far better to have the living room comfortable and the bedrooms cold before bedtime than to have the entire place an even 60F. Edit: You can get a bit of an idea from this about how every room has a door to close it off from the rest. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
What do you recommend for sewage? |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
For sewage ... you're going to need to get a local expert involved. No two ways about it. First to keep you legal. No sense giving the city a reason to condemn the place before it's even built. Second, all the different systems have differing requirements, particularly soil. A soil heavy in clay would defeat a weeper system. I don't know if an open cesspit is legal in your area.
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
First off, I know nothing about your family or how you live now......but 4 girls in that one bedroom sure wouldn't work for me. There won't even be room for much in the way of a dresser even for clothes ( I do see the closet with the bypass doors ). Have no idea what age they are, either, but one bath and 4 girls + wife + you would be a stretch for me. I admire that we can all do with a lot less, and all, there is way too much rampant consumerism, but man, you've gone the other way I'm thinking. Yes....before anyone jumps in, I KNOW people in 3rd world countries live 6 people in one room...but that doesn't mean I'd put that as my personal goal.....nuff said....your house, your family.....not meaning to harp, but you asked.... :D
Looks like a dandy wood cook stove. You might also want to consider a small propane cook top unit in the counter area.....sink it down so you could slide a piece of butcher block top over it when not in use......wood stoves are great in the winter......summer cooking on them is NOT so great.....that's WHY old southern houses had separate kitchens built off of the main house in a separate building......air is hot enough without adding stove heat. To some of the architectural aspects: Your list of hard and fast: 1. Must be 2x6 construction built on 24” centers (thicker insulation / less framing lumber / less solid non-insulated contact between interior and exterior) Agree with 2x6....depending on the area, I'd go 2 2x4 exterior walls with offsetting studs.....interior on 16, exterior on 24. This is how I built my own house....only a 3/4" plywood plate at the top connects the two walls together. But if you go 2x6, go 16" centers.....interior wall finishes like drywall do much better without 24" span. I've built both ways, and I stick with 16"oc now. Use a layer of 3/4" or 1" foam over the exterior sheathing before you side....that tightens a wall up insulation wise more than anything you can do in the way of reducing studs. 2. Must use engineered floor joists capable of spanning entire floor (24” center / no steel support beams or interior load bearing walls) If you want to go with used materials, floor joist size materials are much easier to find......I would consider a conventional joist system for the first floor, trusses being rather expensive....save that for the second floor. They ARE nice in that you can easily hide wiring/plumbing/HVAC 3. Must have only 4 exterior 90 degree corners 4. Must be a 1.5 story having a traditional dual plane roofline 5. Must have 4’ exterior walls upstairs on two sides (gabled on the other two) I'd consider upping that to 5 or 5 1/2'......4' even with a 12/12 pitch means the average adult can't walk up closer than about 16" from that wall.... The 4' walls on the second floor: I assume you mean with a fairly steep pitched roof and 4' knee walls....windows on those two walls impractical. The toilet and sink in the upper bath need to move, or they will be hard to use.....I'd move the WH to the basement, and put the sink across that end wall of the bath, then move the toilet to the wall of the hallway/bath. 6. Must have a 3/4 or 12/12 roof pitch 7. No doors in load-bearing exterior walls (eliminates headers) 8. Only 22”-wide windows positioned within framing (eliminates headers) Make sure the windows in the gable end wall of the bedroom are PLENTY large enough to use as an emergency exit..a fire in the kitchen and up the stairwell could prevent using that as an exit. 22" rough opening is NOT gonna cut it.....the actual opening space will be down in the 14-16" range, if that. Headers just flat aren't that expensive......don't build a fire trap. 9. Must be a 2-bedroom with a possible main-floor bedroom expansion I think I'd have that expansion in mind pretty quick :D Septic systems are pretty much going to be dictated by local conditions and regulations. IF you have a city/county building inspector, start there. If not ( we do not ), check with the county health dept......that is who does our septic inspections and requirements. And good luck.....you're off on a grand adventure that everybody ought to do. We've owned two houses in our lives, and built both ourselves.......and I've built dozens and dozens for other people. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humanure http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composting_toilet http://www.jenkinspublishing.com/hacienda.html Best wishes and it appears you are off to a great start. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
I think it is a great idea. Grats. I can't wait to do it myself!
However, I do think you are nuts wanting to like in an 1100 sq ft house with 5women. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Thanks for the tips.
Andy, I'm going to have to chew on everything you said. The idea with 4' walls (actually 4' 7") is that I could just cut 8' 2x6s in half - trying to cut down on waste and buy the cheapest lumber possible. I also like the idea of standard joists on the main floor. I had decided on engineered joists to permit full spanning of the 24'. I wanted a main floor free of interior walls so that the stove could achieve maximum radiation. I'm not too worried about the size. We already live "very lightly", and my wife grew up with 3 sisters in a room smaller than that. Our children are being raise with those values. I appreciate the comment on the fire escapes. There will actually be an 8' deep porch roof on the front side, so it will make and ideal place to climb out. I've just been trying to be as absolutely cheap as possible. We've got 54" walls upstairs in our house with a 3/4 pitch. I think I could stand at a wall sink by that wall... but it eliminates a mirror. A toilet is definately doable there, and I was planning on doing a tub w/tile surround with the shower coming directly out of the ceiling (the kind with a pull handle :). I am planning on building a brick cooking facility on the back patio for summer cooking. We are also planning on eating mostly raw foods in the summer (when produce is readily available) - this fits with our nutritional values well. But I LOVE the idea of a sunken propane cook surface -- that is a GREAT tip! PS - The "water heater" in the bathroom is actually just a reservoir for the water heated by the cookstove. This is why it is located upstairs. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
You are going to need a land track to support the amount of wood you are going to need to cut to sustain heating and cooking. Depending on the climate, the number one job you do might be cutting, splitting, and stacking. Plus wood is never free totally. Chainsaws, log splitters, gas, oil, etc will still connect you to the grid. Crosscuting and mauling that much wood for years on end will break you physically and mentally eventually unless you have a decent crew for help.
Going 100% off grid is a task most people can not wrap their mind around. It will take a huge effort on your and your families part and might be best to be done in stages over a few years. All at once off the land living so to speak might be an eye opener to say the least. Do as much research on people that have been there and done that as you can. It will give you some insight to pitfalls and challenges |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Why not look into earth bermed passive solar to eliminate most of the heating requirements?
The less wood required to heat, the less of a burden it will be to cut/store, etc |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
Yes, we will still need gasoline and diesel for vehicles and implements. I don't consider this the "grid". I just don't want anyone's pipes or wires stuck into my house. I don't want anyone to have the legal right to send me a monthly "bill". We will still need to use some fossil fuels, but the house won't need them. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
PS - Would you use a gray water system for the sinks and tubs? |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Since I'm not sure what you mean by planning and maintenance but I don't think it is that difficult or maybe I've read so much before getting started it seems like it isn't a problem. There is a group of composting bins which can be built with something as simple as pallets nailed together. Just make sure to dump your stuff in the core of the pile and use something like leaves, grass, etc. in the edges to prevent odor issues. The good news is after sufficient time the product can be used as compost, unfortunately I'm in my first year of doing it p/t so I can't tell you from personal experience how to do rotation however there are plenty books and information on the web.
On the gray water issue it is important you know the laws in your state, being a GIM member I'm sure you're well aware of the fact you need to know the law since the people that will tell you the law, like people with the health dept., are oftentimes uninformed and will try to tell you that is not the case. In the case of my state the law current states that if it doesn't contain human waste it is gray water however I had both a septic person, septic system designer and a person with the health department give me different answers and none of them matched the law. Thanks for some of the information you put out there about what you're doing, it is giving me some new ideas. They are sending chills down my spine and that is tough when you are Mr. Freeze. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
If you are trying to save money on lumber, consider used.
We built our first house (now a rental for my parents) almost entirely out of used lumber. We had to tear down the building, but we got lots of perfect plywood 2x4's, 2x6's and 2x12's. The original house was all used lumber except for the rafters, and was 1200 sq ft. Heck, the roof decking is 5/8 plywood, not that 16/32 wafer crap. We also reused the clean insulation (fiberglass and rockwool only) and all the 12 gugage wiring that was still in good condition. We even were able to resuse the a/c and heating units and windows. Total cost for the house was under 4k. Some stuff just had to be new, like water heaters, duct work, stuff like that. Something to consider. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
For your hot water I recommend using a "super Store type (indirect storage tank)"
We heat our home with a small wood fired boiler that is in the basement. It is connected to a central loop that is fed by either the wood boiler or the oil boiler depending on which is producing heat, if the wood fire goes out, the oil takes over. This branches to 5 zones, the oil furnace is now used just for backup and heats our 2500 square foot Colonial in upstate NY. I went through 25 gal. of oil and 5 cords of wood last winter and keep the temp set at 65 to 70. Even now with warmer weather I can satisfy our hot water needs by burning one arm load of wood each night, the indirect storage tank will keep the water sufficiently hot enough for our showers and other hot water needs for 24 hours. The super store tank can also be connected to solar collectors, something I plan to add to the system asap. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
I have incorporated some of the suggestions made and replaced the images in the opening post to reflect the changes.
Now, I know this is going to make Andy's head explode, but I narrowed the stairway to 38" (from 48") in order to make room for a third bunk bed in the girls' room. I then made the closet a walk-in closet which will have a window seat over the stairway. This had the unintended benefit of widening the kitchen walkway from 3' to 4' - a great improvement. I originally had 4' stairway to capitalize on the joist spacing, but it is worth the extra lumber to pack 2 more kids in that room. :D Additional changes include 2x4 construction with 16" OC and 1" foam sheet, 5' 3" upstairs walls, and 30" windows upstairs and down. I think the 2x4 + foam will give me sufficient insulation. I'm still not happy with the bathroom layout -- I'm going to play with it to see if I can get the plumbing more tidy. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
It's exciting for me to watch your journey, SLV. Sort of starting with a new beginning, in a new home you'll build yourself, and without anyone's chains reaching inside. Very inspiring. I think Thoreau would be proud. :smile:
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
My first thoughts were summer kitchen (covered), solar hot water (covered), and whole house attic fan for cool summer sleeping with little power needed.
A friend of ours gets almost all his building materials tearing down old buildings. The wood is rock hard and has to be drilled, there is no nailing it, but very strong. He is taking down an old warehouse now. Old barns have some amazing beams. Old houses all kinds of great stuff. It is a lot of sweat equity because you have to leave a clean site, but some of the materials are better than anything you could buy new. The wood often came from old growth forests. Even hinges and doorknob mechanisms just are not made like they were 80+ years ago. Really sturdy brass stuff. And floors! Of course it depends on your area what is available for removal. You have to be really careful taking down roof beams, of course. He says that is the riskiest time and you need a couple of helpers who are willing to take it slow and careful for that part. He stopped work a couple of months ago because a guy who could not be politely refused his offer of help was taking too many chances in that part. Then resumed when that friend was otherwise occupied. Sounds like a great adventure. And a good plan. I would expect to add on bedrooms later if I had 4 girls. But they might get used to bunking together. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Nah, I don't have a problem with cutting the stairwell down to 38"......wider is nicer, but since it's a straight up run ( no turn in the stairs ), you can get by with a narrower set.
I'd still stay with the 2x6 + 1" foam on the outside, if this is in Wisconsin. ( think you said that's where you were building ). Also, I'd consider adding a closed in back porch area ( and the same for the front ) as an airlock/weather break so your exterior doors don't open directly to the outside. Like the closet you got in the girls room......taking advantage of that space over the stairwell is smart.....you might even get a bit more when you actually frame it up and get a built in set of drawers starting about waist high and a couple shelves over that, depending on how you work out the head clearance in the stairwell. Efficient use of space is critical in small house. I'd probably cut out the window in there, and consider a Velux roof window if you want natural light...... Whole house fans are great.....just make sure you get a BIG one, (36" min ) and it's belt driven, with 2 speed motor, not direct drive. The belt driven ones are WAY quieter, the direct drives sound like a 727 taking off. I'd mount it in the rear gable end with a louvered shutter that closes when no air is moving ( and screen for insects/birds ), then put an opening in the hallway ceiling with a screened opening and removable panel for summer. Edit: If you're going solar, you can use a DC motor on the fan, and a rheostat that will allow infinite motor speed......you can crank it down to where it's pulling air, but you won't even hear it run. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Sound good SLV,
You've put a lot of thought into it I can see. Once you pass your septic test, you can make your own dry well for laundry and showers, the soap is what clogs up the septic systems. I'm too old now, but if I could do it again, it would be on a south sloping site. Third floor about 3' above grade. Second floor would be a walk in basement on the south side with lots of glass. First floor would be a full basement that almost no one knew about. |
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
Quote:
|
Re: Getting ready to launch in homesteading...
Quote:
I was planning a simple gable attic vent fan on the s/w side of the house just to drop the attic temperature. I know motors are killer on solar batteries, so I'm not sure I want to do the whole house fan. I think I'd rather incorporate elements of good design to permit adequate ventilation. Yes, this is in Wisconsin, and I know the winters can be wretched (summers are pretty nasty, too, but there is that one week in spring... :D). How much more does a 2x6 cost over a 2x4? 50%? I like the idea of an airlock. We could make the front porch capable of being closed in with storm windows pretty easily. Zilver, do you recommend any specific brand of product for our hot water storage? |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:07 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright = None use it and Link to GIM